The “IRAN MOUNTAIN GUIDE” is an association of mountain guide who represent experienced and authorized mountain guids of Iran, who are qualified according to the IRAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION.
The Iran Mountain Guides are trained in Mountaineering, Skiing, Mountaineering Ski, Rock Climbing, Mountain Rescue and etc. majors.
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Mt. Damavand information
Mount Damavand is known as the highest mountain in Iran as the roof and volcano in the Middle East. It is geographically being in the central part of the Alborz mountain range (central Alborz), and in the south side of the Caspian Sea, in the Polour district of Amol.
Mount Damavand Peak has the altitude of 5671 m, according to the National Iranian Statistics; The Climbing Federation of Iran has recently announced: “It recognizes the height of 5609.2 meters for Damavand Peak.”
Good physical fitness is the first necessary note to climbing Mount Damavand. Climb the Damavand Summit from the southern route is an almost easy for those who normally go hiking and trekking and have good physical situation. Although, the sulfur gas spill near the summit might need more effort for the final climb.
The weather of Mount Damavand in April and May is very unstable and with high chance of big sudden storms by change the weather. These elements can disrupt climbing programs and increase the risks and hazards of climbing. The best time to climb Damavand peak is between July and August. As we go from August to September, the area will be drier and face sudden changes in the climate.
What time of day is better to climb?
According to many climbers, due to the effect of the day heat and sunlight on sulfuric rocks which spread the smell of sulfur, it is better to climb in the dark of the night. But it seems that sunlight does not have much effect on this factor, and the value of resting during the night and climbing the summit with more energy in the early morning has the particular priority.
For group climbs, there are some tips to have in mind:
It is better that at least one member of the group has already climbed to the summit of Damavand;In the last phase of the climb, from the last refuge to the summit, if there are companions in the group that there is no complete assurance about their ability to climb, it is better to refrain from the final climb so that other group members do not get disturbed; or Before the climb, a member of the group can be volunteered to return and accompany the semi—professional individuals from the ascent.
It’s better not to take heavy, extra, unnecessary gears. To carry the loads up to the last shelter, you can use livestock to reserve more energy to the final climb with less fatigue. From the Goosfandsara (Camp II Damavand) to the third barrage (Camp III), there are locals who use the mules to move the gear up and you can use the service. At the final stage of climbing the summit, remove the necessary gears and put them in a smaller backpack for the final climb.
The gradual process of matching the body with the oxygen deficiency in high altitude is called “Climbing acclimation”. These adjustment makes it easier to deliver more oxygen to the cells and also improve oxygen utilization. There are significant individual differences in the ability of individuals to adapt to altitude. Some, quickly adapt to altitude, while others have acute mountain eardrums and require longer periods of time to sync with the altitude.
The most important signs and symptoms that occur until you are fully synced with existing air are headaches, nausea and dizziness. To cope with weathering complications and more readiness for the final climb, one can well deal with this problem by doing a climb of 4,500 meters high and returning to the shelter. In case of more serious problems and severe symptoms, take the person to the lower altitudes quickly and get help from professionals who are familiar with the first aid till reaching the official medical help.
Large backpack or bag to carry your gadgets with a mule, a small backpack for climbing equipment on the route, bag cover or collar, proper tent for the height, sleeping bag (with a Comfort -10 temperature), whistles, climbing batons, jackets and windbreakers Or Gortex, Polar jackets and trousers, First layer shirts and trousers, Second layer shirts, Suitable climbing shoes, Woolen soles or hand towels (2 sets), Anti-storm hats, Sleeveless gloves, Polar and stuffed, Sunglasses, Headlamp, additional battery for headlamp, gas cylinder, necessary container (knife, cup, spoon, fork …), thermos or bottle of water, GPS, camera, mobile and Power Bank, toothbrushes and toothpastes, paper napkins, wipes, notepad and pen, yarn and needle, personal first aid kit, sunscreen cream, identity card, and if you are under certain treatment you should take your medicine for sure.
Mount Mount Damavand is not one of the most difficult due to its height. But due to the atmospheric pressure at its summit which is 456 mm Hg, and the usual climbing risks may cause some problems for the climbers.
In the winter, during a storm and a blizzard, the temperature reaches 40 ° C minus zero at mid-way of the summit. This low temperature also depends on the direction and side of the mountain range. The north face is the coldest route of Damavand, and the temperature sometimes reaches minus 50 ° C. The southern route is the second point on which the cold dominates, since it is in the shadows until noon and mid-day. Therefore, climbing in such a situation requires its own experience and equipment, and climbers who do not consider this simply face the risk of freezing and then amputation of the organs.